CBD skincare covers the creams, serums, balms and lotions that list cannabidiol on the label. Lab research suggests CBD can calm inflammation and oil production in skin cells, but studies in people are small and early. That makes a CBD cream a pleasant moisturizer, not a proven fix for acne, eczema or aging skin. Here's what's known, what's hype and how to choose.
Cannabis skincare beyond classic topicals
Cannabis topicals used to mean THC balms and rubs from a dispensary counter. Today CBD turns up in face serums, cleansers, lip balms and body lotions, while THC topicals in Michigan still come from licensed stores. Our guide to cannabis topicals covers the classic types.
It helps to know how these products are regulated. The FDA doesn't approve cosmetics before they go on sale, and its cosmetic regulations don't currently prohibit or restrict any cannabis-derived ingredient. A product marketed to relieve or prevent a disease, though, counts as a drug under federal law. So a cream that claims to clear eczema is making a drug claim that no FDA review has backed.
CBD, THC and hemp seed oil: three ingredients people confuse
| Ingredient | What it is | Intoxicating? | Where you'll see it |
|---|---|---|---|
| CBD (cannabidiol) | A cannabinoid extracted mostly from hemp flowers and leaves | No | Creams, serums and balms |
| THC | The cannabinoid behind cannabis' high | Not in standard topicals; transdermal products can be | Licensed Michigan stores |
| Hemp seed oil | Oil pressed from hemp seeds, rich in fatty acids | No | Moisturizers, cleansers and food |
Hemp seed oil vs. CBD oil is the mix-up that matters most. According to the FDA, hemp seeds don't naturally contain THC or CBD, and hemp seed ingredients carry only trace amounts picked up during processing. A skin research review adds that hemp seeds are rich in omega-3 fatty acids but hold little to no CBD. So “hemp” or “Cannabis sativa seed oil” on an ingredient list doesn't make a product a CBD product. Look for “cannabidiol” and a milligram amount instead. If you're wondering why CBD doesn't intoxicate, our explainer on whether CBD is psychoactive covers it.
What research suggests about CBD for skin
Here's the honest summary. A 2020 review found a body of lab and animal evidence that topical CBD may help some skin problems, including eczema, psoriasis and itching. Clinical proof, it said, was still missing, and most human data comes from small studies. For CBD research beyond skin, start with our CBD evidence roundup.
Inflammation
Your skin has its own endocannabinoid system, which researchers believe helps regulate inflammation, oil production and the skin barrier. That's why cannabinoids interest dermatology researchers. In skin cells grown in the lab, CBD has dialed down inflammatory signals. Findings like these give researchers a lead; they don't prove that a cream will calm your skin.
Oil production and acne
Interest in CBD for acne traces back to lab work. A 2014 study tested CBD on human oil-gland cells and skin samples. CBD reduced oil production, slowed the cells' growth and had anti-inflammatory effects, and the authors called it a promising candidate for acne research. Those were lab experiments, though, and they don't show that a CBD product will clear breakouts.
Aging claims
Oxidative stress, a kind of chemical wear on cells, is linked to skin aging, and lab studies suggest CBD may help skin cells handle it. That's a long way from fewer wrinkles. Results in cells don't tell you what a cream will do on your face.
Eczema and psoriasis
Human evidence here is thin. In a 2019 report, 20 people with psoriasis, eczema or scars used a CBD ointment twice a day for three months. Their skin measurements improved, and no irritation was reported. The report had no comparison group and described itself as anecdotal, so it can't show the ointment caused the change. The 2020 review also flagged a lab finding that calls for caution with psoriasis. If you live with a skin condition, let a dermatologist guide your plan.
Moisturizing: the carrier oils do much of the work
CBD dissolves in fat, so skincare makers blend it into oils, butters and creams. Those bases, often with water and glycerin, are what soften and hydrate skin, and they'd do that with or without CBD. Some formulas add soothing botanicals as well; bisabolol, a terpene found in chamomile, is a common one, and our bisabolol guide explains it.
How much CBD reaches deeper skin layers is an open question. CBD's chemistry makes it hard to push through skin without special carriers. As of the 2020 review, no clinical trial had measured how much topical CBD people absorb.
In practice, many of the CBD lotion benefits people notice come from the base. Compare the full ingredient list and the CBD milligrams per container, not just the word CBD on the front.
Myth check: can THC lotion get you high?
A standard THC lotion or balm isn't designed to get you high. Researchers in Germany had three volunteers spread two THC salves over 50 to 100 square centimeters of skin every two to four hours for three days. Every blood and urine sample came back free of THC and its breakdown products.
Transdermal products are a different story. Patches and gels made with penetration-boosting carriers are designed to push cannabinoids through to the bloodstream, so a THC transdermal can act throughout your body. Read the label: if it says transdermal, handle it like any other THC product.
Choosing a CBD skincare product
- Find the milligrams. Look for “cannabidiol” plus the CBD amount per container. A label that lists only hemp seed oil isn't a CBD product.
- Ask for the batch lab report. Test results show what's actually in the jar, which matters because commercial CBD products vary widely.
- Skip disease promises. A cream that claims to clear acne or eczema is making a drug claim.
- Scan for irritants. Fragrance and essential oils are common triggers for sensitive skin.
- Patch test first. Dab a little on your inner arm once or twice a day for several days, and stop if you see redness or itching.
- For THC topicals, check the THC milligrams and whether the product is transdermal.
Safety: irritation, and drug testing with THC topicals
In a set of 2021 patch-test studies, several CBD formulations caused no irritation or allergic sensitization on healthy volunteers' skin. Those products all came from one maker, though, and broken or inflamed skin can react differently. If a product stings, itches or leaves a rash, stop using it, and see a clinician if the reaction lasts.
Drug tests are the other caution. The small salve study found no THC in blood or urine, but two products and three volunteers can't speak for every topical. Transdermal products are designed to reach the bloodstream, and unregulated CBD products vary widely in what they contain. If you're tested for work or sport, skip THC topicals entirely. Our comparison of CBD vs. THC covers drug testing in more depth.
If you're pregnant, breastfeeding or managing a skin condition, check with your clinician or dermatologist before adding a cannabis product to your routine.
High Society welcomes recreational customers 21 and older and medical cardholders 18 and older. Have a question about a topical's label? Check our store locations, stop by and ask a budtender.
